The (salt) waters of redemption

...and then the light comes as the rains let up, the light comes with deafening intention, a solitude of volonté as hard as ice.

It bores down on every creature and makes the white of the soft lime walls growl and groan and glow. On our scooters, on bikes, on foot, we seek the shade as if it were a Messianic invention.

Palm trees are delicious for this, their gentle tentacles high up above the ground both shelter and breath, allowing for the wind to carress. If the coconuts become unshackled they can tear down with deadly force; hence the need for trusty gardeners who can see the drama before it happens and take action with long poking sticks.

Swimming pools are also sources of salvation; to feel suddently cool and enjoying the shock of the dive. I take my children in my dripping arms and sing to them.

ושאבתם מים בששון

ממעייני הישועה.

ושאבתם מים בששון

ממעייני הישועה.

מים, מים, מים מים

הוי מים בששון.

מים, מים, מים, מים,

הוי מים בששון.

הי, הי, הי, הי,

מים, מים,

מים, מים

מים, מים בששון.

מים, מים

מים, מים,

במים, מים ששון.

And they sang back to me:

הי, הי, הי, הי,

מים, מים,

מים, מים

מים, מים בששון

An address for those of you who live here and those of you who are passing through. A wonderful space with fabulous food, great wines, green gardens and a delicious salt-water swimming pool (no chloride).

Ban Thana is open on the weekends or weeknights with a 24 hour call. Reservations are absolutly necessary. It is not cheap. Cash only. Totally totally worth every penny.

Directions: drive down Thadeua Road to the clock tower roundabout, and take the road that goes along the Mekong – and not the road that goes to the Friendship Bridge. Turn left at Soy10 and left again at the fork in the road. It's on your right.

French and Middle-Eastern menus.

Call Philippe at: 020 77 44 97 81