I was warned, of course.
I was warned that this trip would be unlike any others because the monsoon had not yet finished, but I just didn't care. I thought to myself, if I am caught in the rain I'll just hole up somewhere and have a tea, rap with the folk and wait for it to happen.
And I am glad
I did.
There were
times when I cursed the fucking mud and it certainly gave me time to
reflect upon the Biblical creation of Adam where God breathes life
into a blob of dirt and makes a hermaphrodite out of it. I especially
thought of that creation myth when I was portaging Charlene over an
expanse of thick mud she couldn't ride through.
At one point
the mud was so deep my legs sunk into it up to my knees and when I
managed to pull them out I discovered that my sandals had remained in
the earth, returning to our source. I ran barefoot with the bike
until the nearest patch of grass and headed back to rescue my
sandals, but in which quickly closing sink hole were they hidden?
Frantically I plunged my hand into each and every one, almost
expecting to set off a bombie displaced by the last rains.
Imagine the
scene, if you will: I was on all fours with the sun setting and no
place yet to camp, covered in mud. The primeval Adam could not have
been more filthy at birth! My arms covered with goo and the only
sounds were the sucking of the earth as I plunged into each and every
disappearing indentation on the path. If a truck had come by just
then I would have lost all trace and been royally screwed.
But, to
use the French expression, "il y a un bon Dieu pour les
ivrognes", and I finally plunged my arm in one last time and dug
out my sandals. Saved.
And so I had
diluvian rains, primordial mud ... all I needed was an attack by
Amalek to complete the Biblical picture. Fortunately, this is Laos.
Everywhere
there was the sound of wetness. Tiny rivulets of water along rice
paddy embankments, small fish and frogs in flooded paddies, the sound
of the tires as I splashed through the long flooded holes left in the
ooze by trucks. Somewhere in her inner workings Charlene had water
rolling around. Every now and then the rain would start; a gentle
chatter at first and if the clouds were right and the winds were
wrong and the skies could no longer retain themselves then the big
rains would come. You could see sheets of it pouring down in the
distance. And you could see it coming your way.
I was warned.
And upon my return a lot of my friends scolded me for taking risks
with my life and the life of my children's father. Their arguments
are valid:
What if
something happens to me and I am not found by someone competent?
What if I
fall and loose consciousness?
What if the
last, very last, totally last and forgotten forest tribe rebels
attracted to the clickety click of Charlene's gears in the silence of
the jungle decide to continue the fight?
I am grateful to my wife for being one of the few who understand my need for solitude, who understand this taste for risk. One day soon, I don't know when, she's going to go on her own vacation and leave me alone with the kids. But till then, baby I was born to run!
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